travel

Milan was full of surprises, new things and realisations that life (and I) have moved on since I lived there ten years ago.

On the way out I got to try the Heathrow Express' e-ticketing with a barcode scanned from my phone (it worked, but I had printed it out anyway just in case, sorry trees). There was a free sandwich and cake and drink in a proper glass on the flight (Lufthansa, not expensive, a nice treat after dozen of Ryanair cattle transport). Once in Milan airport, I rushed to catch the last train and did not notice my friends who had come to pick me up – surprise! And then once in town we found that we had the flat to ourselves, as Giorgio stayed at his boyfriend.

On Saturday we got going too late to drive to the seaside (Liguria) with our friends, so we visited the cathedral. Surprisingly, they let Stuart in wearing shorts (last time there I was banned from entering because of showing my knees – don't say the Catholic church is not evolving!). Then walked down Via Torino and Corso Porta Ticinese to check out shops. Stuart needed a hat and sunglasses, I needed shorts – the temperature was an unexpected 35 degrees! You can tell how much we care about attire because after popping into Diesel, we went down a downmarket slope via Energie, Gas, then Carhart and Coin (roughly John Lewis-style), to end up making our purchases at Upim (think Primark with less style and twice as expensive).

We took a quick nap then our friends picked us up and went for dinner at La Giara near where we were staying. Great restaurant with Puglia cuisine. Tried very hard to pay but the owner did not let us because Giorgio and Paolo vowed never to eat there again if he did let us pay. Mind games!

Then went to Mono for a few drinks and saw Michele and Emanuele (these are boy's names in Italian – but they were there with some very glamourous lady friends). This is people I have not seen since I moved to London in 2002. Lovely evening. They played La Roux, didn't know the song but that screeching falsetto is unmissable. An odd movie was shown on a monitor (I asked, it was Mysterious Skin, I watched at home after I got back, absolutely worth it if a little disturbing). Michele knew about my objectionable musical taste and asked the DJ to play a certain song for me. The DJ (who I was told is a fan of my Barbie dolls) obliged – with a Spanish version I had never heard!

On Sunday we spent the day with Giorgio. We walked a lot, again around 35 degrees. Walked to the cathedral, had lunch and then a fantastic icecream at Chocolat (I had chocolate orange and peanut brittle). Went to the castle but did not go in, then strolled through the park. Had an Aperol Spritz in Via Dante, met Michele and Antonio and then went from air-conditioned shop to air-conditioned shop. Went home to change then walked to Paolo's for dinner. His flat was an oasis of cool (air-conditioned fortunately), with a huge terrace (that we just popped out on, it was still stupidly hot). I had my first Aperol with Orangina (interesting, sweeter than usual) and another couple of culinary 'firsts': Tuscan 'crostini', and home-made pansotti with pesto brought back from Liguria (pesto had added French beans, found out sometimes it is done with potatoes too).

On Monday we tried to do all the rest. Went up the roof of the cathedral, then to the Scala theatre, went back to the castle but it was closed, tried to see Da Vinci's last supper but it was closed, so we had icecream instead (it made sense at the time). Met Giorgio and his colleague Simona for lunch, then walked to Via Sammartini, the 'gay street' which these days looks all shut or run down, perhaps it is busy in the evenings? Slowly made our way home via Via Orefici where we had probably the most expensive drink of our lives: two Aperol spritz for 24 Euro (not even with the customary bowl of little snacks). It must be said that the terrace of the bar overlooked the cathedral.

Went back to the flat, showered and packed, and as usual left for the airport well over three hours before departure – just in case. Once at the airport, we realised we (er, I) had mixed up flight times and we had another three hours before departure. And the flight was delayed. Fortunately Milan airport has a lot of shops. Then you go through security and you have another lot of shops, so we passed the time somehow. Once in Heathrow, we managed to jump on the last train to London, then taxi home.

It was just three days, but it felt like a much longer holiday. It must be the temperature and all that sun. Fantastic. Although no tan to show for it because we lathered with once-a-day total protection every morning. A few photos on Flickr.